
As many of you know, I work as a food writer for my college newspaper. My editors are lovely people, but sometimes I wonder if they know how much it costs to write about food every week when I’m not getting reimbursed. Usually its fine, because I would probably spend money on food anyway. But this week, since we have two weeks to write our articles (there’s no paper printed during spring break), my editors had a brilliant idea: instead of reviewing just one restaurant, you should review five. Five? Are you shitting me? You just pulled that number out of your ass! Do you know how much it costs to eat at five restaurants, especially when the free bus service is not running over spring break? With this in mind, I promptly found a bit of a loophole in their idea: they don’t specify sit down restaurants per se, just restaurants.
Flipping frantically through my dictionary, I found the definition of the word “restaurant”. It reads, “an establishment where meals are served to customers.” By this logic, food carts may technically be considered “restaurants”. Since the food cart culture in Portland is so important, my editors loved the idea. I decided to specialize and find the best shawarma/middle eastern food carts in Portland. My next challenge was figuring out how to do this without spending money for the bus.
On the Thursday before break, I promptly slept through my morning class, rolled out of bed at 11 (just as it was ending), and hauled myself out to the bus to go downtown for a shawarma breakfeast/brunch/lunch/afternoon snack. My plan had originally been to go to class and study for the midterm I would be taking the next day, but that agenda was thrown out very quickly. As the bus rolled into town, I flipped through my meticulously planned itinerary. I would hit four shawarma places on Thursday afternoon, and the final one on Friday night for dinner.

My first shawarma stop was a place called Sabria’s on 5th and Oak. We don’t need to talk much about this stop: it was only noon and she was out of lamb, which I believe to be a sin against shawarma. She did, however, have chicken, so I decided to try it anyway. It was only $5, so I figured it was worth a go. Sadly, the shawarma was unremarkable. The chicken was juicy and perfectly cooked, but other than that, the shawarma was average. Yeah, it wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t that good either. I got what I paid for.

After a disappointing first round, I trudged up to the 10th and Alder set of food carts, looking for Ali Baba’s Turkish Kitchen. Unfortunately, this silly named food cart was nowhere to be seen. I improvised and went to another shawarma cart nearby, Sheish Kabob Grill. This was the real start of my day of shawarma. They cooked lots of tiny strips of lamb to perfection, and added plenty of fresh lettuce and tomato. I could’ve done with a bit more onion and tatziki, but it was nice to have a very basic shawarma, focusing mainly on the flavor and textural differences of lamb, lettuce, tomato, and pita, with everything else serving as an accent. At $8.50, it was more expensive than I would have liked. That being said, they did give me a lot of lamb. With this shawarma in my hands, I walked off to the next stop.

Fortunately, Sultan’s Kitchen is on 4th and Hall, near PSU, so I could walk off the first two shawarmas as I went for my third. I was particularly excited to learn that I would be getting a doner here, not a shawarma, and it would only be $6. A doner is like a cross between a gyro and a burrito; It’s a Turkish street food I came to love during my time in Istanbul. I had high hopes biting into this doner, and it did not disappoint. Coating the exceptionally thin pita was a thick layer of spicy sundried tomato sauce, very typical in Turkish cuisine. The lamb pieces were nice and thick; they encapsulated everything good lamb should be. To compliment was some lettuce, onion, tomato, parsley, and a nice thick tatziki. The chef even poured more on the top of the doner after he had toasted it under a panini press. All the ratios of ingredients were spot on, and they melded together seamlessly to make a wonderful doner. This doner took me right back to Istanbul.

Feeling generally content with food, my life, and the whole world, I meandered my way back north to El Masry Egyptian on 3rd and Washington. This place is a unique food cart, with a small seating area and a roof, which is especially appreciated. The gyros they do are gigantic. Seriously, they resemble a rolled up Sunday newspaper. I got the standard, a lamb gyro, which is essentially the same as a shawarma. The nice thing about this gyro was there were olives in it! I love olives, and to have them with lamb in any Middle Eastern cuisine just feels right for me. The veggies were also very fresh and crisp. Other than that, it was a fairly standard gyro. The tatziki was actually a bit less garlicky than I would prefer, but for $7, this giant gyro is a good deal if you want a lot of lamby goodness.
My fifth food cart stop was completed the next day, right after I had finished taking the midterm that I didn’t study for because I was eating shawarma. It went very well, actually. Maybe this could be a new development in gastronomic science: shawarma helps you to prepare for midterms. I’ll be waiting by my phone for the results. Meanwhile, I should probably stop rambling and tell you about my last shawarma stop.
(This is currently my desktop picture).
I’ve actually been to Adam’s a few times before. It sits just a block away from Voodoo Donuts on 3rd and Ash. I got my usual: a lamb shawarma with everything. At $9, it was my most pricey shawarma, but it was well worth it. A lamb shawarma with everything includes all the standard fare: lamb, tomato, lettuce, tatziki, hot sauce, pita, etc., but Adam’s puts in hummus, pickles, and french fries as well. Let me take a brief detour here, because french fries in shawarma are important to discuss. In the Middle East, french fries are amazingly popular for completely unknown reasons. Most doner shops in Turkey put their cooked fries under the spit of lamb to soak up the lamb juices that drip down. They are served in, on, or with virtually everything no matter where you go. To have a shawarma with french fries in it is a sign of true authenticity. And besides that, it’s just delicious! Adam’s hummus is wonderful too, and I am always treated with a little extra for my continued patronage. The garlic sauce is so beautiful: it’s thick, creamy, and very garlicky, with a perfect amount (a lot) incorporated into the shawarma. It mixes a bit with the hot sauce and the hummus to create a really interesting concoction at the bottom of your shawarma. The veggies are fresh, the pita is warm, the lamb is served in big chunks: everything about this shawarma is wonderful. It’s a vibrant mix of everything I know and love about Middle Eastern cuisine. I go to Adam’s every time my friends are off buying their pathetic looking maple bacon donuts at Voodoo. The looks on their faces when I return with a gigantic, mind-bendingly delicious shawarma is priceless. Sometimes, they’ll want to trade bites of donut for bites of shawarma. I’m usually a reasonable man, but I get downright protective when it comes to Adam’s shawarmas. ”Fuck off!” I’ll proudly say, “Get your own shawarma!” I highly recommend, if you even have a vague interest in shawarmas and only a few minutes in Downtown, that you go get a shawarma from Adam’s. You will be pleasantly fulfilled.
Thus ends my two days of binge eating shawarmas in downtown Portland. It was fun, I endured obscene amounts of bloatedness from eating four shawarmas in one afternoon on Thursday, and I have learned a lot about the shawarma scene in Portland. That said, I don’t think I’ve eaten this much in weeks. It took me two days to work up the courage to roll my fat ass out of bed to write this article. But in the end, it was the call of the shawarma that led me out of my food induced stupor and into the light of culinary nirvana.